Religious holidays are tied to the Islamic Hijra calendar, so dates vary from year to year. Eid al-Fitr (the end of Ramadan), Eid al-Adha (Pilgrimage), Lailat al-Mi'raj (the Ascension of the Prophet), the Prophet's Birthday and the Islamic New Year are the main celebrations. Secular holidays include the Day of National Unity (22 May), Revolution Day (26 September), National Day (14 October) and Independence Day (30 November). Yemen has some fabulous areas for trekking, but keep in mind that you're on your own - there's no organised trekking in the country, and that means no marked trails and no maps. Because the country is sparsely populated, you'll need to be self-sufficient. The Haraz Mountains or al-Mahwit is both good areas because they're densely populated and the people are friendly. East of San'a camping is not welcome at all.

Although Yemenis don't really get into water sports, the expect population has found some pretty good diving spots. The Yemeni seas are rich in sea life, and popular with people who either want to gawk or eat. You won't be able to rent equipment, so bring your own.

The central market, Souq al-Milh, is a collection of around 40 small souqs, each specialising in one product - you'll find vegetables, spices, qat, raisins, pottery, clothes, woodwork, copper and silver. In the Jambiya Souq you can watch craftsmen making complex ceremonial weapons. If you're a Muslim, you should visit Al-Jami' al-Kabir, the great mosque on the western side of Souq al-Milh. The mosque, which is closed to non-Muslims, was built around 630AD, when Mohammed was still alive.

The city's National Museum lives in the House of Good Luck, a former royal palace built in the 1930s. Its five floors have displays on the ancient kingdoms of Yemen (including Saba), the country's Islamic history and its modern folk culture. The Museum for Arts & Crafts, also in an old palace, specialises in artefacts from everyday Yemeni life, while the surprisingly good Military Museum has the low-down on the country's many wars.

Elsewhere in Yemen you'll find rugged mountains, deserts, coastal plains, and beaches on the Red Sea and Gulf of Aden. The Muslim people who inhabit Yemen's towns and villages are as varied as the terrain: Tihamis, whose descendants are African; the Arabic-featured Highlanders; and, in the desert, nomadic Bedouins.