|
Sur is a coastal town in the Sultanate of Oman. It is as well an ancient
town but in the past was surpassed by neighbouring Qalhat. After the
decline of that port, however, it came into its own as the main centre for
trade with Oman's expanding empire in East Africa. Merchant families
there, and in the towns directly inland, made their fortunes on the trade
in slaves and cloves. Houses with fine carved doors, and decorative panels
above the windows, were built among the palm groves of Sur, where many
still stand today. But trade with East Africa declined after the middle of
the last century, and Sur's fortunes declined too. |

|
In its heyday Sur had been one of the greatest of Oman's shipyards and
even today, with only a dozen dhows under construction, it is still in the
lead. Here it was that in 1980 Tim Severin chose to construct his
traditional dhow with sewn planks for his epic voyage to China. But he
named the dhow Sohar after that chief port of the China trade. Beside
Sur's dhow yard a ferry carries passengers across the creek to the still
unchanged village of Ayga, built directly on the beach opposite. Ayga is
the port of the Beni Bu Ali tribe whose centre lies inland at Bilad Beni
Bu Ali, on the edge of the Wahiba sands. A murder here in 1820 brought
down the wrath of the British Empire.
|