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Beirut, the
capital of the Lebanese Republic, has long been considered, by virtue of
its strategic location, the crossroads between the three continents of
Asia, Africa and Europe, and the gateway to the East. Its million
inhabitants are a unique blend of the Eastern and Western cultures. Named Beroth, the city of wells, by the Phoenicians. It is one of the oldest settlements of man as evidenced by relics from the prehistoric communities. In Phoenician times, however, it was dwarfed by thriving Byblos, Sidon and Tyre. When occupied by the Romans under the command of Pompey in 64 B.C., it entered the most glorious period of its ancient history. In 15 B.C. it was named Colonia Julia Augusta Felix Berythus and acquired the rights of a Roman city-state. What most contributed to its fame, however, was its School of Law which, under Septimus Severus (192 - 211 A.D.) excelled the Schools of Constantinople and Athens and rivalled that of Rome. Beirut :was built on the largest rocky
promontory of the coast at the near centre of the country. Later it would
become capital of the modern nation, but in ancient times its deep harbor
and central location were not so apparent and more powerful neighbours
overshadowed the city. Its earliest name was "Birot," a Semitic
word meaning "well" or "source". When the city-states
of Sidon and Tyre began to decline in the first millennium B.C., Berytus,
as it was then called, acquired more influence, but it was not until Roman
times that it became an important port and cultural centre with its famed
Roman Law School. After Roman power waned, Greek influence dominated in
the Byzantine period beginning in the 4th century A.D. Later, the
Crusaders held the city for some 200 years. It was only at the end of the
19th century, after 400 years of Ottoman rule that Beirut began to develop
and modernize. Modern Beirut, which has well over a million inhabitants,
remains the cultural and commercial centre of the country. Although the
city centre was left in ruins by the war, business was taken to other
parts of Beirut and commerce continued as usual. In the 1990's, however,
plans were made to reconstruct and develop this war-ruined area. Over a
period of 25 years the project will turn Beirut into a city that is modern
yet retains its familiar eastern flavour. Such landmarks as Martyrs'
Square, the Parliament Building, the Serail and the traditional souks are
all part of the new design that covers 1.6 million square meters.
Extensive archaeological investigations into the city's past are also
being carried out under the general redevelopment plan. Aramco annuitants with memories of "Pleasant Days" once
spent in Lebanon can put the lovely, cosmopolitan land at the eastern end
of the Mediterranean Sea back on their list of favourite places to revisit
in retirement. After more than 20 years of civil turmoil that kept foreign visitors away in droves, business travellers and an increasing number of tourists are venturing back to the country once known as the "Switzerland of the Middle East." And with tranquillity restored and reconstruction under way, recent visitors report that the famous spirit of hospitality and joie de vivre that made its capital the "Paris of the Middle East" are alive and flourishing. The U.S. State Department has dropped its ban on Americans travelling to Lebanon, European airlines are flying into Beirut's spanking new air terminal and tourist visas can be purchased on arrival. There was a time in the 1950s, '60s and early '70s when Beirut was the "short leave" vacation spot of choice for most Aramcons. Lebanon's cool mountains, waterfront cafes and bountiful
arrays of fresh fruits and flowers were one aspect of the Mediterranean
country's attraction for desert dwellers. Others sought out its historic
ruins, shopping and Beirut's gold suqs, or its elegant restaurants and
sophisticated nightlife. Over the years many Aramcons had Beirut or Sidon
assignments with Tapline and AOC. For nearly three decades many second-
generation Aramcons attended the American Community School. Numbers of
Saudi Arab employees and a few Americans studied at International College
and the American University. Now, once again, Beirut is bustling. Some familiar hotels are
operating - the Riviera, the Commodore, the Mayflower. Though rooms are
not the bargains they once were, moderate rates can be found. Although the
fashionable St. Georges beach club is open, the adjoining hotel is still a
burnt-out shell. Reconstruction of the Phoenicia began last summer.
Restaurant prices are like those of similar quality in the United States.
New highway overpasses and automobile tunnels cut through old districts of
the city. Americans can rent a car using their U.S. drivers' license,
although timid tourists will possibly prefer to sit behind one of Beirut's
notorious taxi drivers, rather than facing him on the road. The international educational institutions that were Beirut's
hallmark have survived the war years and are busily adapting their
curricula for the 21st century. The campus of the American University of
Beirut is the oasis of tranquillity that many Aramcons will remember,
though one recent visitor was surprised to see every other passing student
speaking into a cellular phone. The seaside Corniche is still a pleasant
place to stroll at sunset, as before, but seeing young Lebanese couples
jogging together or skating by on roller blades may surprise visitors
returning after a long absence. |
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